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CHAPTER VI.
An exceptional moraine and glacier lake — Hammerfest — Consul
Robertson — The North Cape — Cod-fishing — Knivskjierodden,
the northernmost promontory of Europe — The Porsangerfjord —
A glacier farm — General glaciation of the extreme north —
Sverhouklubben and the Fuglebjerg — A wondrous colony of sea fowl
— Abundance of animal life in the Arctic Ocean — The northern
headlands of Europe — Vardö— Arctic market gardens — The
northernmost fortress of the world — A moltebeer and eider-duck
preserve — Political interest of the Varangerfjord — Russia and
the Gulf Stream — A political interlude — The Vadsö whale fishery
— An interesting but unsavoury visit to the whale butchery.
July 25-26th.—Leave Tromsö at midnight by the
Haakon Adelstein, and proceed between islands
and mainland, that are undistinguishable one from
the other as we pass them, but are wild and grand
on all sides. Although later in the season than
on my previous visit, the snow was much more
abundant and deeper. This improves the scenery
in some respects, but hides the structure of the
glaciers that we pass.
The terminal moraine at the Oxfjord station,
which I have already mentioned as the only
ancient example of an ordinary moraine that I have
seen in Arctic Norway, was, of course, a special
object of interest to me. Further observation
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